Roads and Off Road

After trying my hand at a mini version of the Dakar Rally, another unexpected treat lay a few miles up the road in the shape of the N420 to Cuenca. If this road wasn’t going to be enough to make today a good driving day, then the A23 motorway from Zaragoza to Teruel certainly was a great hors d’oeuvres to the main course!

How can a motorway drive be enjoyable? It’s surely the worst way to see a country, and in that respect this motorway was no different from any other. But what sets it apart from every motorway I’ve driven in England was the lack of traffic, lack of roadworks and lack of a poor surface. In those hundred miles I’d be surprised if I saw 50 vehicles on my carriageway, no roadworks and a billiard table smooth surface. I would go for mile after mile without seeing anything else, could you imagine such a scenario on a motorway in England, surely not? I therefore arrived at my planned stop fairly relaxed, which was just as well as things were about to change.

Just west of Teruel is Rambla Barrachina, a place I’d earmarked as a ‘must visit’. The very narrow turning from the main road onto a dusty track made me a little cautious, but I had previously viewed the turning on Google Street View, had I not then I would surely have missed it. The satnav did a surprisingly good job and I recklessly put my trust in it. Had I been driving anything with a ground clearance more than that of a dachshund then I have no doubt I could’ve tootled along with gay abandon. But to avoid a visit to Lloyd’s bodyshop on my return, I had to carefully plot a route less likely to create scraping noises from Herman the German’s belly, there was no escape without a scrape, but only underneath.

I made a good decision to park up where I did and continue my exploratory mission on foot. The incredible colours of the rocks really drew me in, it was still cold, maybe around 0c and there was frost on the plants hidden from the sun’s rays. I scrambled up some small hills to get better vantage points and this was when I wished I’d brought my grippy off-road trainers. Walking on the fells in my home county I always wear the appropriate footwear but I only had my ‘road trainers’ with me on this trip and consequently grip on the loose surfaces was poor to non existent. Going up is always easier, coming down I ended up using the 3-point method – two feet and my backside. But I eventually returned to the car unscathed and left with very fond memories of being in such a remarkable natural environment.

Once back on a proper road it was west to Cuenca on what I can only describe as one/two of my now favourite roads. Firstly the N330 squeezes between dramatic sandstone gorges and no frills villages which I could imagine will be baking hot during the summer months. Turning right at Torrebaja I joined what must be a hooligan’s paradise, a 70 mile private race track! It was unbelievable for pretty much every reason a driver or biker would want. Wide 2 or 3 lanes of smooth road surface that undulates on a scale that makes the A6 over Shap seem like a bump in the road. Some great bends and barely another vehicle to be seen, no speed cameras nor police (will check my post when I’m home) and seriously, the 90kph speed limit could be doubled in places, not that I did of course, honestly officer.

N330 road
The N420 takes some beating!
Cuenca

All in all it turned out to be another day where I did too much of everything. Arriving at Cuenca I walked much further than I intended and returned to my hotel in no fit state to party all night, but today will be logged under the ‘very enjoyable’ heading.

Great Expectations

Tuesday 2nd January started with, if not great expectations, then certainly half decent ones. But as is so often the case in this world of travel, expectations are frequently not met, and today was one of those days with the only recovery from an otherwise disappointing day coming at my very last stop, but more of that later. 

The experience Rachel and I gained over our many years of travel should have taught me a lesson but sometimes I think I’ll never be old enough to know better. During our last couple of years of travel Rachel would sometimes say “But will we be able to see that”? It was a lesson I should’ve taken more notice of, but yet I continue to this day falling into the same trap. Still, you’ll never really know if you don’t go, but Rachel’s valid point was based on photographs taken either from a drone, with a fancy lens or had been enhanced to such an extent as to make them seem far more appealing then they truly are, a bit like all the photographs we now see of the Northern Lights, as the camera takes a more dramatic photo than the eye can see.

Back to today’s shortfalls.

#1. Bateria de Castillitos

#2. Las Gredas de Bolnuevo

#3. Cortijo del Fraile

All these places I’d earmarked due to my research on the internet, something that is all part of my enjoyment of the whole travel experience.

Bateria de Castillitos

A 20 minute drive from the main road, the first half of which is on a dodgy surface but hey, I laugh in the face of dodgy surfaces even if Herman doesn’t? Unusually the second half was surprisingly good due to it being recently resurfaced, most strange!

As is typical of my ‘just go and think later’ attitude, I headed up to the highest point which wasn’t actually the place I should’ve gone, but better to do the hard stuff first. There are three ‘sites’ within the site but I won’t bore you with the finer points unless you plan on going?

Briefly I would skip the ‘high’ one and save yourself at least a mile’s walk. In total it took three miles to do them all and I was left a little bit underwhelmed by it, although it’s still in my travel ethos to visit places even if they turn out to fall short.

The one at the top of the hill, don’t bother! 😆

Las Gredas de Bolnuevo

Two funny shaped eroded sandstone rocks supplemented by a few hundred metres of a supporting cast. OK, not out of my way so worth popping in for a deek.

Cortijo del Fraile

Of The Good, The Bad and The Ugly fame. Another 20 minute dusty drive to a film location which failed to live up to its ‘billing’. The tree has since ‘passed away’ and the building is now fenced off. Oh well, another never to be revisited.

But the day ended well 🤗

No hotel booked so just rocked up at one from the Barcelo chain at Retamar (just outside Almería), very nice indeed and I got B&B for slightly less than off Booking.com, I was well impressed with this one which ended up finishing off the day rather nicely.

Castillo de la Calahorra (3 Sept)

Definitely not a let down en route to my next overnighter. I’m not the sort for museums and the like, my limited attention span doesn’t allow for such things, what really captures my appreciation of travel is seeing places the like of which do not exist elsewhere, or at least not closer to home. In the main I’m a scenery person, but impressive buildings with dramatic backdrops is something worth travelling to see, which was the case with this latest castle.

Herman grumbled a bit on the drive up as his tyres fought for grip even with traction control on, but we made it unscathed (again). Not for the first time on this trip has his lack of ground clearance caused me a little concern! 😆

Today’s a first! (Saturday 4th Sept)

No longer am I waiting for the restaurant to open for breakfast and out before any other guests have surfaced, and no longer am I on the road by 9am, for today Herman’s wheels will not turn.

It’s the first time that I’m doing more than a one night stand and I’m here in Granada for two.

Yesterday’s visit to the Alhambra didn’t quite work out, “No tickets available until 7th” which meant I missed out on the Alcázar and gardens, however it is free to walk around the grounds, so all was not lost after the rather arduous steep 2k walk up from the centre.

Searched at the entrance but no fee payable here

The little I’ve seen of Granada I very much like, very busy maybe partly due to the holiday period and this weekend’s Three Kings celebrations for which Spain is renowned.

The place has an air of sophistication about it, as is typical of many European cities people seem to take pride in their appearance and those of all ages get dressed up for an evening out, whether it’s the younger generation going out for a lively evening or those even older than me having just a stroll and late dinner! I feel very under-dressed, and it highlights the cultural differences between the likes of Spain and Italy compared with the UK, it makes me think…🤔

Although the Alhambra is the big attraction to this city, for me the district of Albaicin has been the highlight, possibly because I never actually got into the Alhambra properly? But like I say, viewing it from Albaicin and the contrast of this suburb was worth the trip here alone! I hope to get some better photographs later but for the time being you’ll have to make do with these:

View from the hotel’s roof terrace
View of Alhambra from Albaicin
Local artist producing some wonderful paintings of the view!

Catch Up

From the Costa del Sol, Jebel Musa and the other mountains of northern Morocco can just be seen peering over the heat haze sitting along the horizon of the calm blue Mediterranean Sea. 

Friends and family send photos and messages of freezing Britain, whilst Ken and I sip coffee/beer/wine at a beachfront cafe as the calm waters of the sea lap against the shore.

It’s times like this that make me think it was the right decision to risk the trip. With pain comes doubt, and in the week prior to departure I had sufficient to sow that seed of doubt, it was a gamble I eventually decided to take.

Travelling is not always the easy option, especially if there are ‘issues’ to deal with. After Rachel passed away they were emotional issues, now it’s very much physical.

Looking back on my journey to the Costa del Sol, and the things I did before Ken joined me for a week, it seems like all went fine, the off road driving, the Spanish fell walks and the sightseeing around Granada all took some effort, but went off pretty much without a hitch.

Down here in Estepona there were places I wanted to show Ken and all in all we did everything we wanted (I think), but not without a hiatus. That was when the question of an early return entered my head. But with Ken’s support I got back on track and am now hopefully set up to complete what I started, so thanks Ken for ‘rolling with it’. 😆

A lot of catching up since the last blog! 😳

Although I wasn’t quite firing on all cylinders for the entirety of Ken’s time with me we still managed to rattle off a few places, so I reckon we gave it a decent shot.

What a contrast in weathers! From a 4×4 drive across a tricky and snowy A69 to Newcastle airport with reports that it was closed due to the weather, to cruising along the Costa del Sol in an open top sports car! Although there were worrying reports of the flights out of Newcastle, it turned out to be not as bad as expected with his flight being delayed just two hours. It ended up being a late arrival for him to Malaga where we stayed the night before cruising to our accommodation in Estepona, there was no rush so tried to steer clear as much as possible of the AP7 and A7.

A big contrast from yesterday’s A69 drive! 🥶
One happy chappie in Estepona
View of Gibraltar and Jebel Musa (from our apartment)

Ronda

A place Ken’s dad recommended him to go and which I had also earmarked as a must visit. Most tourists who stay in the Marbella area probably take an excursion to Ronda but few in a Porsche Boxster. The legendary A-397 which climbs the 30 miles from San Pedro de Alcantara to the tourist mecca is a driver’s and rider’s paradise and as such the police’s with several warning signs about speed detection. Unfortunately we were stuck behind a lorry for longer than I would have preferred but it may have saved me a few euros. Nevertheless we were able to get some spirited driving in for the most part and, unless I return to a bundle of fines, seem to have escaped unscathed.

Ken taking in one of the lovely views
Some old bull, and in the background a male bovine

After a fairly quick visit to Ronda we returned back down to the coast via some of my other favourite roads, the A-369 to Gaucin and in particular the A-405 to San Pablo de Buceite, en route to the rich person’s playground of Sotogrande.

Sotogrande, the Porsche wasn’t out of place.

For some reason the day, or possibly a build up of the weeks prior, had taken their toll and I ended up being grounded for two days giving this ageing body time to recover. I felt a little bad about cramping Ken’s style but he was cool with everything and may suggest he doesn’t have a style to cramp? But I really wanted us to get to Gibraltar……

Gibraltar

Just a 40 minute drive from our gaff, a place I had been to with Rachel but never up the rock as the top was covered in cloud at the time, so this was a visit for both Ken and me.

In the van we had parked in La Linea and walked across the runway into Gib, but as I got closer to the British Overseas Territory I pondered driving in, yes we would do it. The signs approaching the border control were a little confusing so I just plumped for one of the few lanes which looked best. No issues and we were in in no time, the road goes through a tunnel under the runway and we found a suitable multi-storey car park near enough to the hub of activity.

There are pluses and minuses to driving in Gib, fortunately we only experienced the pluses in, no charge for the car park (coz there was a fault) and fuel at just over one euro a litre, we were also able to drive around the rock 👍🏼

It could’ve been so much different though! On our seven mile drive around the peninsular we saw three groups of police officers doing radar checks. I never saw a speed limit above 40kph, although I was reliably informed that there are places where 50kph is permitted. The small dual carriageway on the north side is actually 30kph which is less than 19mph, the police were having a field day, but not with us! Ten percent leeway given, but £300 fine for being 1 mph over that!

Tucking in to a bacon butty at Roy’s Fish and Chips, the food and drinks were fine but the prices not, avoid!
St Michael’s Caves within the rock
Think I overdid the Regain! 🤔
Don’t think Ken was too sure about our furry ancestors

Casares (and the vultures)

I have a soft spot for this place, I am just fascinated by the huge birds, maybe it’s because I’m a Big Bird? But whatever the reason I dragged Ken up to the village area so that I could try to get some decent photographs courtesy of a camera Andy (Mills) very kindly loaned me.

Gibraltar and Jebel Musa in the background
Is it a bird or is it a plane?
NOT a vulture, nor even a Big Bird!

To conclude

Early Monday morning I returned Ken to Malaga airport for his flight back to a cooler and wetter England, then I popped in to Fuengirola to briefly meet up with Paul and Chris (who are holidaying here for a few weeks) before I returned to my apartment in Estepona for a few days.

Ken about to tuck in to his ‘last supper’
and the view from the restaurant 🤗
Fuengirola with Paul and Chris.

Homeward Bound

The Bay of Biscay yet again fails to live up to its legendary status and although it’s by far from a millpond it certainly has a long way to go before it gets Andy and me ‘reaching’ for the sick bags. We seem to fall in that fortunate category of having sea legs, so it takes more than a swell or some white horses to prevent us from getting our money’s worth from membership to the Commodore Lounge.

The significant thing about me typing this as we cross one of Europe’s renowned lumpy waters on 23rd January, is that I’m just one final drive from completing what I set out to do. Anybody who read my last entry of 14th January will know that this was by no means guaranteed.

The concluding chapter

Ken returned to England with more colour in his cheeks, and after I made a brief call in at Fuengirola to see Paul and Chris, I was back at the apartment in Estepona for four nights, until Andy would fly in to Malaga to accompany me on the drive up through Spain and eventually home.

I suppose those four days of doing not very much gave me chance to recharge, Herman’s wheels not turning, nor my legs striding out, however the visit of Paul and Chris to Estepona saw me putting in a four miler, which was possibly little too much? On my final full day I took the recommendation of my apartment’s owner Ana to visit a place high in the hills. 

Fin de Sendero (by Pico Los Reales) in the Sierra Bermeja exceeded my expectations, something which hasn’t always been the case on this tour. The drive up was steep, very steep in places, and narrow, not much more than a car’s width at times, but it was well worth the climb, although it would come with many problems if doing it during the season as there are no passing places to speak of. The view from there was……..well you’ll get an idea from the photographs.

I had time on my hands on Friday (17th) which suited me as I took a few stops en route to Malaga to await the late arrival of Andy. Early Saturday morning we popped across to Fuengirola to meet up with Paul and Chris for coffee before Andy and I headed north to Córdoba for two nights. The open top city bus tour is something I wouldn’t particularly recommend but you can’t go to the city without visiting the Mezquita, I suppose it would be like going to Granada without seeing the Alhambra? I wanted Andy to see it and despite me having been before it still amazes me!

The further north we headed the cooler and wetter it got so by the time we arrived at Toledo it was like northern England in winter. Nevertheless we quickly did a whistle-stop hike around the steep cobbled streets so by the early evening it was time for a long awaited paella. With no suitable inside seating we enjoyed our meal sitting outside by one of those heaters, sheltering from the rain under the restaurant’s vast umbrella. The location of the city is truly stunning, sat upon a hilltop with a deep gorge around it, I would love to return in good weather, possibly on the bike, and explore the gorge area. Our hotel in the historical quarter was first class in all respects.

Our final stopover was Salamanca, a place I’d been to twice before. We stayed at the Parador for a remarkable £75 pppn b&b, massive rooms with settee and a couple of comfy chairs and although it’s a twenty minute walk to the centre it makes up for that with arguably the best view across to the cathedral.

You say patata, I say frittata 

I’ve never previously had a problem using the the term frittata in Spain, but it seems that every bar Andy and I went into didn’t recognise the term. Was it due to the parts of the country we were in or just my lack of understanding of the readily available local dish? On our drive up through the central region we always plumped for local cafe/bars as opposed to chains or petrol stations and as such English was rarely, if ever spoken. With much smiling and nodding, as if we understood our hosts, we never ended up with what we expected, to the extent that I dropped ‘frittata’ and replaced it with pointing, yet even that failed once, which made us think these two English travellers were a good excuse to have a laugh at their expense. The time we did get a frittata was when I asked for a croissant! I rest my case.

Re-evaluation of travel

When Rachel died and I eventually decided that I was up to travelling again I did so with a heavy heart. It was an emotionally distressing challenge but with it brought life and hope that a future could still be bright. After a few trips the solo travelling on the motorbike made me believe I could be strong enough to do this alone and that I certainly didn’t need to be chaperoned on my trips, the turning point being the Scandinavian venture.

Now I travel carrying not so much an emotional hit but more of a physical one. I can still do solo travelling, but on this latest Spanish jaunt I have had chaperones, firstly in the shape of Ken and now with Andy. Yes I had a week’s solo driving down to the Costas and never gave anything a second thought, after all, this is my life now. But the accompaniment of Ken and Andy, coupled with some physical challenges has impacted my thought process. Call me a big softie, but throw into the mix not seeing my two grandsons for a month only adds to the conundrum. 

So where do I go from here? Are future travels always going to be accompanied and limited to three weeks? And who knows what awaits me after my February scan? If I’m told no more travelling abroad again for four months whilst I undergo more treatment will I get cabin fever again and long to return to the open road? If I’m told that I have another three months off will I want to go again so soon after a trip during which I found physically challenging at times?

Plenty to ponder on my return and I warm to the prospect of discovering what the future holds.

Photographs to follow on my return to England.

The photos……

En route to Fin de Sendero
From FdS looking towards Gibraltar, Jebel Musa and Morocco
and the other way
Saturday morning get together in Fuengirola
Córdoba, the exterior of the Mezquita

Puente Romano & Torre de la Calahorra

The Mezquita
We agreed on ‘carne’ and it was fine with no after effects!
Toledo
Ávila en route to Salamanca
Ávila
Salamanca
Homeward bound